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What's on my bench this month?

This month was a custom eternity ring set with 7 of the clients original single cut diamonds plus adding 5 more larger round brilliant cut D-F VS1 diamonds. Each diamond has a special meaning which highlights the beauty of custom pieces.



The ring was handmade out of platinum, the Rolls Royce of metals due to its specific properties including being hypoallergenic, and pure white as opposed to white gold.

The diamonds were set in a specific style called fishtail setting. This setting has gained popularity in recent years due to social media.

The photos above show from L-R, the ring having been bent up and fused together. Fusing is done to achieve a ring without a solder join. Once I have cleaned up the ring and filed to the correct dimensions and shape, I then place the diamonds on upside down on the ring to work out spacing and mark out. The third photo shows the holes have been drilled, burred out to size and excessive material removed from the sides to help with the engraving on the side required for fishtailing.

This ring was a little different requiring a bit of forethought as the alternating size diamonds were a challenge. Fishtail is normally set with the same size diamonds in a row.



The above photos show the time consuming part.  Achieved using highly polished gravers with different geometries, the engraving section requires alot of skill, time and practise with a good steady hand! From L-R, the back is cut out (called 'ajour'). This is a common handmade practise to highlight underneath the setting. The sides are then cut out in order to produce the beautiful flashes of light from the highly polished fishtail.



The finished ring! In order to keep the sides parallel to enable the fishtail look, I opted for a double claw for the smaller diamonds.


Stay tuned for some more behind the scenes of my custom pieces.

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